Across the world, sea urchins are a prized delicacy – served fresh in Japan and across Asia, crafted into rich pasta sauces in Italy, and enjoyed in high-end restaurants globally.
Yet in Australia, an overabundance of long-spined sea urchins is devastating marine ecosystems, with little public awareness of their culinary potential.
The long-spined sea urchin (Centrostephanus rodgersii) – a native species expanding southward due to warming waters – has overgrazed vast stretches of the Great Southern Reef, stripping once-thriving kelp forests to lifeless, rocky barrens.
These “urchin barrens” are devoid of the rich marine biodiversity that once supported abalone, rock lobster, and countless fish species. Now, areas affected by urchins stretch across 2000km of coastline from southern NSW to Tasmania.
In Tasmania alone, 20 million urchins now dominate reefs. Without intervention, these barrens will persist, threatening marine industries, biodiversity, and the resilience of the Great Southern Reef.
“If this were happening on land, people would deeply care about it,” says Professor Maria Byrne, one of Australia’s leading urchin experts. “The long-spined urchins are a poster child for the impacts of climate change. We need industry, politicians, scientists, and policymakers all working together – urgently.”
From barrens to the plate
While the long-spined urchin is an ecological threat, it is also an untapped delicacy. Leading chefs are now embracing urchins in their kitchens, turning this crisis into an opportunity for sustainable seafood.
Athena Ko, CEO of The Roe Australia, is at the forefront of this shift, demonstrating just how versatile and flavourful urchins can be in fine dining.
“Urchins are one of Australia’s most overlooked seafood treasures,” says Ko. “We have an abundance of them, and with the right preparation, they can stand alongside the best seafood in the world.”
This isn’t just about culinary innovation – it’s about recognising urchins as a globally valuable resource.
“Japanese people have been eating sea urchins since the eighth century,” says Makoto Shimizu, a representative of Akita Sanriku Factory. “The demand is high worldwide, and Australia has an incredible resource – it just needs to be harnessed.”
But culinary demand alone won’t fix the problem. Scaling up harvesting efforts requires more than just appetite – it requires a national strategy and serious investment.
Beyond the Kitchen: A blueprint for action
The Centro Task Force, a coalition of scientists, fishers, and environmental groups, has developed a $55 million national plan to restore balance to the reef by combining commercial harvesting, ecological management, and scientific research.
Backed by a Federal Government Senate Inquiry, the Cento Business Plan outlines key areas for investment, including:
- Targeted reef monitoring and urchin control.
- Industry support to expand commercial harvesting and processing.
- Engagement with First Nations communities for sustainable Sea Country management.
- Research and policy development to secure long-term solutions.
“We have a strong plan in place,” says Dr Scott Bennett, a leading marine ecologist and co-founder of the Great Southern Reef Foundation (GSRF). “What we need now is government funding to catalyse urgent action. The ecosystem can recover quickly, but only if we intervene.”
Currently, divers can pull a tonne of urchins in under two hours, but the bottleneck is in processing and profitability. Without financial incentives, investment in infrastructure, and subsidies to target high-impact areas, the effort won’t scale fast enough to match the problem.
White Rock: Bringing the crisis to the surface
To bring national attention to this issue, White Rock, a new environmental documentary featuring Damon Gameau, is set to tour with the Ocean Film Festival across Australia in March before launching as part of the Great Southern Reef Foundation’s Q&A tour in April.
“This feels like such a win-win for Australia,” says Damon Gameau. “We have the chance to restore our reefs and, at the same time, celebrate a delicious seafood that’s been overlooked for too long in Australia”
For those wanting to learn more, the free Ocean Lovers Talk at Bondi Pavilion on March 22 at 10.30am will feature Tessa de Josselin and marine experts, discussing how we can turn this crisis into an opportunity.
A call to action
The solution exists. A national plan is ready. The ecosystem can recover – but only if intervention happens now.
This is not just an environmental issue – it’s an economic and cultural opportunity to reshape Australia’s relationship with the ocean. By combining science, industry, policy, and food culture, we can restore our reefs and create a sustainable seafood industry in the process.
But first, we need the government to act.
Ocean Lovers Talk The urchin invasion: turning a climate crisis into a culinary cure is on at 10.30 am on Saturday, March 22 for free at the Bondi Pavilion for the Ocean Lovers Festival. Register at the above link.
Further reading: Sustainable seafood guide aims to protect marine life in Australia.
