On the outskirts of Cape Town, a garment factory owned by South African outdoor retailer Cape Union Mart is stitching sustainability into its production line.
The factory, which produces approximately 190,000 puffer jackets annually, has been working to minimise its environmental impact.
In 2021, the company partnered with the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP) to better understand the amount of water and energy required for each jacket and how to reduce usage.
A life cycle assessment showed that more than 80 per cent of a jacket’s environmental impact came from the production of its fabric. The finding led Cape Union Mart to overhaul its procurement practices, said pre-production manager Michelle Goddard.
“Customers are definitely looking for more sustainable products and, being environmentally responsible, makes sense for our brand,” she said.
“But even more than that, business as usual is no longer an option. Human activities have caused the Earth’s systems to exceed six of the nine planetary boundaries required for a healthy planet, and there is an urgent need for companies to integrate sustainable practices.”
Cape Union Mart’s efforts are part of a broader UNEP initiative helping small- and medium-sized textile manufacturers reduce their environmental impact.
From Tunisia to South Africa, the program has worked with clothing producers to cut greenhouse gas emissions, phase out toxic chemicals, and reduce water use.
“The world is realising that we need to change our approach to fashion and textiles,” said Elisa Tonda, chief of UNEP’s resources and markets arm.
“We need to design products to be reusable, durable, and recyclable in order to protect the planet from the effects of pollution and waste.”
Launched in 2020, UNEP’s Innovative Business Practices and Economic Models in the Textile Value Chain (InTex) programme is funded by the EU and Denmark.
It focuses on small and medium enterprises in five countries: India, Indonesia, Kenya, South Africa, and Tunisia.
At its core, InTex promotes a shift away from the traditional linear “take-make-dispose” model of fashion toward circularity, a system where materials are recycled, garments are made to last, and resource use is minimised.
In Tunisia, denim manufacturer Gonser Group has embraced the shift.
With UNEP’s support, the company analysed the environmental footprint of its factory near Tunis, which produces around 600,000 garments annually.
The assessment led to new energy management measures that track real-time water, steam, and gas use, technology that could soon help the company cut waste and boost efficiency.
“We need to reduce our environmental footprint if we’re going to leave a better world for our children and the following generations,” said Bilel Ben Miled, Gonser Group’s head of sustainability.
The company also plans to install 300 kilowatts of solar panels by next year, and is testing an automated chemical dosing system that could reduce chemical use by 25 per cent.
